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New Generation: Sílvia Catarino

26 Jul 2022

Stories New Generation: Sílvia Catarino
She studied Communication Design at ESAD in Matosinhos. She also took a course in Jewellery Design at Le Arti Orafe School in Florence and, later, a tailor-made training in Women's Shoe Modelling and Sandal Cutting/Assembly and Finishing, at CFPIC, in São João da Madeira. In 2019, Sílvia founded Cordoa.

How did Cordoa come about?
Cordoa was born in 2019, after a long period in which I worked as a designer and agent, mediating the production of footwear collections for French and Swedish fashion brands at factories in São João da Madeira.

I always felt the need to create my brand, where I had more creative freedom and could make the prototypes and part of the production myself, following my pace as much as possible, and based on a more holistic view. It was my experience and this desire that drove me to start my brand.

What features distinguish the brand?
At Cordoa, the entire process is essentially handmade: I draw and model the sandals in a small atelier in Porto, whilst only occasionally collaborating with small industries. I use the most sustainable and best quality materials possible: vegetable tanning leather, nickel-free metallic inserts, water-based glues instead of solvent-based glues, and leather soles with non-slip natural rubber (crepe). And, to protect the skin, I use only natural oils and beeswax, instead of waterproofing products based on chemical components such as perfluorocarbon (PFC). I favour quality over quantity. The brand is currently focused on manufacturing sandals, but I intend to expand to other types of accessories shortly.

You had experiences in different sectors before arriving at footwear. What fascinates you the most about this sector?
At first, I was fascinated by the connection between the world of fashion and arts – I was still living in Milan when I decided to start drawing footwear and already had a fashion accessories brand.

Today, I am less interested in fashion and enjoy creating more timeless collections, despite seeing footwear as one of the many forms of artistic expression and identity.

What do you think this new generation entering now into the sector has to offer?
In addition to creativity at a strict level, I believe the new generation has a more interconnected view of the world, and I hope that it is not one restricted to the digital world, but one that includes a strong sense of belonging to the natural world, bringing to the industry an urgent environmental and social concern that helps to create a more circular and fair economy.

What advice would you give to a young person starting in the industry?
It is an increasingly difficult question because everything changes constantly and faster and faster. I continue questioning myself while trying to find a balance in this system that encourages a trend towards gigantism in which I do not reflect myself. I believe that there are more variables to focus on in this sector and system in addition to speed and growth. Furthermore, I believe that smaller, more artisanal production centres, and less dependent on large machines or high technology, should coexist with large-scale factories to offer alternatives and opportunities for smaller brands.

I think this quote by designer Philipe Stark reflects these ideas well: "The designer today should not help to produce more – he has to help produce fewer and better things. There is a beauty, an aesthetic and philosophy of the less”.